Balkan Summer: Two Month Check-In
Two months of Balkan Summer — gone. 17 places. Done and dusted.
Prices rose. Temperatures dropped. Wine and seafood reigned. And I am very tired.
I now present the next round of unedited excerpts from my notes app: Balkan Summer edition.
KONIJC
way to accidentally put yourself on the Muslim/no booze side of the country when you need it most. So intentional…….
working is isolating. I find myself socializing less and less
Do young women dress up on normal occasions maybe because they saw their mothers dressing up during the war as an act of defiance? Hm
the neretza is absolutely the soul of this place how amazingly clear
MOSTAR
that fish dinner was fucking outstanding
first impression: a place reeling with an influx of tourism. some so old and some so ugly new
“Good rakija you feel in your chest, bad in the throat” - Ivan
shout out to the Balkans for making me wear a dress for the first time in 6 months
thanks Elvis (can we talk about how I’m the first jew he’s ever met?)
“7-3” working hours
between the heat and this little cold I am total fog
I haven’t written anything because all me and my cute camp-vibe dorm mates can do is lay in bed in our amazingly ACd room that definitely got me sick, but worth it
Tour Facts
first time I really understood Tito as a manipulative dictator, and first time I maybe understood why the hospitality so good — they NEED tourism unlike any other place I’ve been
Red Bull diving championships (10m platform ON the bridge)
Pomegranates are good luck
The entire old town is 20 years old!!!! Rebuilt in 2004
I don’t get the point of blagaj unless you’re dervish-ish, maybe pay for the boat ride but not the monastery
the film was not at the petrol station. I still liked it though. (Of course I choose the one about a woman wanting a man she shouldn’t! AND on the back of a scooter!!!!!!!!)
Dave the drummer dropping 3 hours of relentless bombs: the second siege of sarajevo (and the perfect send off)
ŠIBENIK/TISNO
bright red “bad girl” nails and espresso with cream. It’s time (for?)
TWAS THE NIGJT BEFORE TISNO
I just want to take a moment to celebrate myself. Because I bought tickets to Selectors in October. Not knowing whether I’d make it. But knowing I wanted Balkan summer. And now I’m here. Halfway through. On a proper no-work week long vacation. My friends coming to dance in the sun with me. I am so full
the triangle wata igarashi trip
“26th of Croatia”
“If I accomplish my goal, it will only be known in the future. It’s a life thing”
Cute basic life conversations and a silly little mdlemon dance
And then, disaster
the funniest Dutch man to ever live saved our night. Marble Man. Russian roulette. Pink panther theme hunting for a beer.
“Jesus loves you” dreadlock man on scooter the last morning walk back. Thanks. I needed that
SPLIT/DUBROVNIK
it’s not like split is ugly. There’s just no reason to be there culturally
split — what’s the point? Gelato by the sea. Feeling exhausted and sad
the old law of dubrovnik that if you came to the city you had to bring a rock of your size (bc they always needed rocks) — they should still do this
I want to be content and happy drinking a Negroni at a lovely sunset bar in a pretty city but I’d give everything to be balls out sweating with my friends at talismann, “resting” for a couple hours and then bouncing our butts off at Sunday Bret. That’s literally all I want right now
I am ready to be lemoff from this country. Bye
HERCEG NOVI
“Like for what reason am I sitting on the side of the road at the Montenegrin border eating a banana? Literally no reason.” “Sometimes I love the lack of meaning of it all but right now it’s uncomfortable”
someone got cuffed at the border oooooo
hospitality? nah
smells like plants and flowers and I don’t hear English. good
there’s a certain charm to the small little pieces of rock people put towels and chairs on. and the kiwis!
not that shop lady accusing me of stealing her cheese…..
Kanli kula my new favorite place in the world maybe :)
despite the lack of water, I enjoyed this place thoroughly. quiet beach moments with a jar of cheese and tipsy walks along the promenade — just me, and my not so delusional thoughts
KOTOR
no notes because the hostel is fun and I just drank a lot and facetimed the entire day (repeat: no rakija for Maggie)
someone articulated for me why “digital nomad” is cringe: the affiliation with people selling their online travel/marketing programs! So true!
pace of movement here is WILD slow
the streets do not have names and no two streets are the same length or width
I won a paddleboard race
fake free fortress tears. boat tour was nice. I’m dissociating and I’m not sure if there’s anything I can do about it
thanks hostel 4u, it was a time (fun, interesting, hungover)
ZABLJAK/DURMITOR
immediate calm in this small town. clearly where I belong
ah, cool air
I love the way coniferous trees stand together, still and strong. Like monks in mediation
I like the mountains. I appreciate them. I respect them. But I don’t love them like I love the sea
honestly so fine with working in a cafe all day this rainy Monday. Then bed. Then pasta. Then bed again
Tara rafting was pretty, chill, not freezing which was nice. Will raft again in the spring when rapids are rapid
script idea: dating in different languages
ALWAYS CHECK BUS SCHEDULES IN PERSON, the bus gods might just smile on you
overall note: I still enjoy meeting people, but I’m tired of the same conversations
ULCINJ
“to ulcinzs”
“that was terrible pronunciation, but I got you”
hey maybe the first time ever cops tried to get money out of me! lame welcome to town but solid travel level up
maybe this is the place I learn to not give a fuck about shopkeepers trying to sell me shit
goal of today: tan tits [status: completed]
pomegranate beer & wine
Stari Bar: just another old town. I need a new set of eyes. Or maybe a new brain
Stari Bar: probably sick 500 years ago
This town has WAVES ?
Albanian weddings:
huge, 400 people
prom dresses and stilettos only (me, combat boots)
shaking hands with the family
food served constantly, not in courses
cigs inside
whiskey in bottles on the table
hour long opening circle dance
song requests in envelopes with cash
no speeches. only music and dancing
never mind the circle dance is the only dance. there’s no other option. so communist
this is actually just the groom’s party. The bridal party arrives at the end and she meanwhile stands at the alter like a smiling object
basically all the men are letting loose sweating (not a tie in sight, mind you) and the women are sitting looking like morticia adams worried their makeup is going to sweat off
left after 4 hours, still before dessert.
Long Beach area is indeed very nice. Special to see it so empty
a much-needed few days of deeply quiet sleep, joints and movies. (and shooting watermelons)
—
This month of notes? Less educational. More personal. A bit repetitive. So it goes. It’s just been that sort of month.
In sum: not every morning is Christmas morning. Not every place is special. I am grateful to be by the sea, to be in nature, and to sleep. Because the couple of days I’ve spent in bed have felt like being born again.
Besides that?
Less börek. Slightly less sweat. Lots of quality time with myself and my (dreamy, not-so-delusional) thoughts.
Just the way I like it.
ONWARDS,
Mag