Plums & Canned Beef: a Blog for Bosnia and Herzegovina
Two months later and I am still thinking about that tiny, triangular country in the heart of the Balkans that no one thinks to go to.
Two months later and I have (seemingly) sold several a wayward backpacker on where to travel next.
In a detour from my typical, more personal content, I’ve compiled a concise list of reasons why you should consider visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina.
This is not sponsored by their tourism board, but it might as well be.
HISTORY
First and foremost: did you know that Bosnia & Herzegovina experienced genocide only 30 years ago?
Most people don’t. I certainly did not.
I’m not here to give a history lesson, but after the fall of Yugoslavia in 1991, a lot of shit went wrong. As things often go, the people with the greatest amount of land and power (in this case, Republika Srpska, one of the two current major entities of the country) wanted more land and power, and little Bosnia geographically, well… endured the brunt of their aggression.
They attacked Sarajevo, the capital, in what is now known as the Siege of Sarajevo. This aggression lasted from 1992-1995, and is the longest siege in modern warfare.
The results of these traumatic years are evident throughout the city. Shrapnel holes remain in many buildings. Splatterings of red paint called “Sarajevo Roses” can be found in sidewalks all around town. These are concrete scars caused by shell explosions during the siege where at least three people were killed. There are approximately 200 roses throughout the city.
Down in Mostar, the aftermath is even more obvious. Old Town is pristinely clean and beautiful — because it was destroyed entirely and rebuilt just 20 years ago. (Thanks UNESCO.) Outside of Old Town? Many buildings still stand as abandoned shells.
Various forms of both physical and psychological warfare continued through July 1995 and the Srebrenica massacre, where more than 8,000 Bosniak Muslim men and boys were brutally murdered by the army of Republika Srpska, in the United Nations-declared “safe zone” of Srebrenica. (I encourage you to read more about this if you are hearing of it for the first time.)
After a lot of dicking around, the UN said enough is enough and intervened — too late.
There’s a lot more to this story. It’s a complicated one. But what is certain is that the recent wars, coupled with Sarajevo being the starting point for WWI, makes BiH a hot spot for history buffs. This kind of travel is called “war tourism”.
Examples:
War Childhood Museum
Srebrenica Museum (Gallery 11/07/95)
Various Muslim cemeteries, nearly all with dates of death 1992-95.
Bosnians are okay with this. They wish to serve as an example. They do not want this kind of hate to continue, though of course it does, even today. They do not want the world to forget their history — the history of many.
And so I gave a little history lesson.
2. NATURE
But! BiH is more than just war tourism.
It is without a doubt home to some of the most stunning nature in Europe. I suspect this is due to how untouched it is. Bosnia & Herzegovina is home to:
Europe’s only surviving rainforest.
Europe’s deepest canyon, the Tara River Gorge.
The clearest, cleanest rivers on the continent. The Neretza. The Una. The Drina is a marvel — enough so for a Nobel-prize winning novel to be written about it. Well, not about it. But on it. You get it.
Even within Sarajevo, you have stunning sunsets over the valley with just a short walk to the Yellow Fortress. Higher still, there’s the Trebevic mountain chairlift and abandoned Olympic bobsled track.
Other honorable nature mentions include:
The Jajce waterfall.
The train between Sarajevo and Mostar — stunning mountain/river vistas for 2 euro.
The singular coastal town, Neum, for those who need their fix of the sea, like myself.
That will have to be first on the itinerary for next time.
3. FOOD
Fresh & cheap. Everywhere. Really. I don’t recall a single bad meal. This is a meat and potato country at its core, so picky eaters or those with allergies need not fear.
Ćevapi reigns. Fresh pita with grilled meat. I loved to add kaymak, a light creamy dairy spread.
Of course, there is the ubiquitous borek (some of the best in the Balkans, I can confidently say). At $1, it can’t be beat. Veggie friends are in luck too, with cheese, potato and spinach options available just about everywhere.
My personal favorite? Klepe: a small meat ravioli/dumpling served with sour cream, peppery oil, and spices.
And then there’s all those rivers I was rambling on about — and the fish that live in them. In the middle of nowhere, literally nowhere, I had some of the freshest grilled fish… ever.
Sarajevo also does international cuisine well for a small city. NYC Bagel — run by a Bosnian woman and her husband from New York — was pretty damn solid. And, I had a tasty pizza at Nostra Cucina. Really good gelato across the board, too. (Marshall’s in Sarajevo, EGOIST in Mostar).
4. ACCESSIBILITY
Affordability: the conversion rate is 1 BAM (Bosnian Convertible Mark) to approximately 50 cents. Beer runs for about 2-3 BAM. Generous plates of ćevapi for 5-10. Hostel dorms for 30-40. (And people wonder how I can afford long-term travel? This is how.)
Safety: so safe. Because of the ethnic and religious diversity of this country, all travelers can and should feel welcome. Bonus: unlike in Montenegro and Albania, the men don’t stare.
Note: if you Google “safety in Bosnia & Herzegovina” you’re going to get embassy alerts about “land mines”. Unless you’re walking in the middle of the wilderness, you’re fine.
Transportation: all major destinations are easily connected by bus and train. However, I’d highly recommend renting a car to really get a feel for this country, and especially to enjoy the nature to the fullest. (This is 100% what I will do next time.)
The only trick — which is significant, I’ll admit — is getting there. There are no currently direct flights from the US. Fortunately, intercontinental flights run cheap, so consider tacking it on to your next Euro-trip as an affordable option.
5. THE PEOPLE
Last but not least, my favorite Bosnian anecdote.
In the center of Sarajevo stands the ICAR Canned Beef monument: a large sculpture of canned beef with the inscription "Monument to the International Community by the grateful citizens of Sarajevo.”
What? Why? A testament to the internationl aid provisions which the citizens of Sarajevo received during the siege. All sorts of non-perishable goods — including canned beef that had expired as long as 20 years ago. Literal leftovers from the Vietnam War.
Erected in 2007, its creators originally wanted it placed in front of the President’s place, but no. That was too abrasive.
Only years later was the United Nations headquarters serendipitously opened just behind it. Nice.
And this, to me, embodies the beauty of the people of Bosnia & Herzegovina.
Humor. As I was told by many Bosnians many times, their dark humor, and their ability to look towards the future with lightness, is what has kept them alive.
This beef is not beef. It is a genuine ode, a remembrance, a tongue-in-cheek thank you to the rest of us.
Even after the rest of the world kept its eyes shut to the reality of their situation for so long, they are not resentful. Quite the opposite. They are so, so happy to be able to share their home with us. (And not in the way that hospitality industry folks are happy to make money off tourists.)
They are so proud of their country, proud of themselves, their fellow people, and what they’ve endured.
And they should be.
—
I remember stepping off the bus at my first stop, Višegrad, looking around Iike… huh. Good vibes. I was just 30 minutes over the Serbian border and still, something was different.
It smelled like plums.
A few days later, the first night I took a walk around Sarajevo, I knew. I knew I was going to love this country. I even have a video of myself talking to the camera to prove it.
I had no idea what to expect. But I was so taken. And this is why I travel. To be surprised.
Discovering a new place where you fit, where you feel interested or inspired, or where you learn a damn thing or two, is one of the supremely great joys of life.
It might even be the meaning of it.
ONWARDS,
Mag